Please know that we do not guarantee CUTTINGS. This listing is for cuttings only and should only be purchased by experienced gardeners, or those wishing to learn to propagate. You get two cuttings to double your chances of success!
Variegated Brugmansia ‘Green Goddess’
Angel Trumpet ‚ÄòVariegated ‘Green Goddess’
Description: up to 14″ long blossoms are nocturnally fragrant, with single flowers that start out white and color to deep pink.
Characteristics: Brugmansias look fantastic in containers or in a border. The dramatic display persists from late spring until frost. Green Goddess is a sport of Brugmansia ‘Peaches and Cream’ – grown by Fred Sommer. More Pics coming soon.
You will receive two (2) unrooted Cuttings that are at least 5″ long and 1/2″ to 2″ Diameter (Size is determined by available plant material).
HOW TO ROOT BRUGMANSIA CUTTINGS
Angels Trumpets are some of the easiest plants to root and grow from cuttings, however not everyone is successful at rooting cuttings. We are not responsible for failed cuttings since we can’t supervise your rooting method. We do send at least two cuttings to double your success. Some people like larger cuttings, some like smaller cuttings. Smaller cuttings are from above the Y and will usually flower quicker. Larger cuttings are from the stem of the plant and are “woodier” than cuttings above the Y.
Rooting in soil
You can root a cutting vertically or horizontally in soil. Either way, you will need at least one growth node per segment so that the plant has a place to form new leaves. Choose light weight, fertile potting soil to begin your cuttings in. For both vertical and horizontal rooting, you will need a medium (6 to 8 inches) pot of soil that you need to pre-wet, so that it is damp but not wet or soaking. A good rule of thumb for wet versus damp is this: damp soil should stick to your fingers while wet soil will compress and stick to itself.
Vertical rooting: Cut a 4- to 6-inch long segment and strip the plant down to 2 to 3 leaves. After watering the soil to pre-wet it, make a hole in the potting soil with your finger. Push the cutting down about 1 to 2 inches and firmly press the soil around the cutting to support it vertically.
Monitor the moisture level by feeling or observing the soil. You want it to remain damp but not wet, which could rot the cutting. After 2 to 3 weeks, roots should start to form. You can test this by lightly tugging at the cutting and feeling the resistance. If in doubt, wait another week; if it is rooted, you should start to see signs of new leaf growth and if it hasn’t rooted, you will likely see signs of rot.
Horizontal rooting: (Not recommended for Hibiscus) A good reason to root plants horizontally is if you don’t have a long enough cutting for the vertical method, or if you want more plants per each segment. This method is a tiny bit more difficult and has a somewhat high failure rate. For horizontal rooting, you again will need at least one growth node per segment. Place the cutting lengthwise across the potting soil, burying up to ¬æ of the diameter under the soil, pressing the soil firmly around it. You must monitor the moisture level because the cutting can easily rot.
Rooting in water
This method works very well especially for hardwood cuttings but will also work for some greenwood cuttings. Remove all but the top one or two pairs of leaves from the cuttings. Take a glass jar and fill with about 2 inches (5cm) of water. Place your cuttings in the jar. Change the water every day (if you have chlorinated tap water, allow water to stand overnight in an open container before using on your cuttings.) Do not put in direct sun. Do not allow leaves to become submerged in the water as they will rot.
When you see white nubbies (lenticels) forming on the cutting you can take it out of the water and pot it up in a good soil mix with good drainage. Do not overwater as this is the biggest cause of cuttings rotting. It may droop and lose leaves from the shock of being taken out of the water and put into its new home but it will perk up again after it adjusts to the soil. Don‚Äôt fertilize until you know it has a fairly good root system and then fertilize 1/2 strength for the first few weeks.
One the plant is stored, water it sparingly, only about once per month. Be warned, your container brugmansia is going to start to look pretty pathetic. It will lose its leaves and some of the outer branches may die. As long as the trunk is still green, your container plant is alive and well. The tree is only sleeping.
A month or so before it is warm enough to take your container brugmansia back outside, start to water your brugmansia more frequently, about once a week. If you have room in your house, bring the container brugmansia out of its storage space or set up a fluorescent light bulb to shine on the brugmansia. In about a week you will start to see some leaves and branches start to grow. You will find that your container brugmansia will come out of dormancy very quickly.
Once you put your container brugmansia back outside, its growth will be very rapid and you will have a lush, breathtaking, flower filled brugmansia tree again in just a matter of weeks.
We are a licensed Georgia Department of Agriculture Live Plant Grower. License #39793
Conditional Warranty: Warranty is limited to guarantee that cuttings will arrive safely and in good and healthy condition, and is conditioned on Seller receiving prompt notice (within 24 hours of delivery) of any problem with the condition accompanied by photo validation.